Q1: What are the main stages of making bespoke boots and shoes? Q2: How long do bespoke shoes take to make? Q3: How many times do I have to come to Jermyn Street? Q4: Who actually makes the bespoke shoes? Q5: How much do your bespoke shoes cost? Q6: Who buys bespoke shoes and boots? Q7: Do I have to select from standard models of shoe? Q8: How should I care for my shoes? Q9: Can you make shoes for customers living outside the UK? Q10: Do I have to pay to have my own last made for the first pair of shoes? Q11: Could the last be made on a machine? Q12: Do you hold sales events or special offers? Q13: How are your ready-to-wear shoes different from the bespoke ones? Q14: If your ready-to-wear shoes are machine made, what is special about them? Q15: Do you make shoes for women? Q16: Where is your work-shop? Can I come and see it? Q17: Who can I talk to, to learn more? Q18: Henry Maxwell and Foster and Son trade from the same premises. Are the shoes made by the same people? Q19: I live outside the UK: when my shoes wear out, how do I get them repaired?? Q20: I have a nice old case that I want copied but don't live in the UK: Do I have to send it to Jermyn Street? Q21: Why do people buy handmade bespoke shoes when they are more expensive than cheaper machine-made shoes? Q22: I am tax resident outside the UK. How do I get the UK VAT refunded to me?
Q1: What are the main stages of making bespoke boots and shoes? Back First, because we need to measure and assess your feet, our last maker will need to meet you. This could be in Jermyn Street or we could visit you in central London (to ensure that one of our last-makers is free for your visit or make an appointment please get in touch, or we could see you on one of our visits to your country. Second, your feet will be measured in the traditional way by one of our expert last-makers, who will trace around your foot, take various measurements and assess the structure of your feet. You will need to allow 30-40 minutes for this. Third, You will be asked what style of shoe you want. Unless you bring in a shoe to be copied or have a clear idea of the design, you will be shown a variety of examples of shoe styles we have made in the past and various leathers and colours that might appeal to you. You do not need to choose between set styles: the whole point is that your shoes will be unique. Fourth, the making process starts with the last-maker fashioning your personal last, on which the shoe will be made, carving it out of a piece of strong wood.
Q2: How long do bespoke shoes take to make? Back You should allow about 8 months for delivery of your shoes, assuming that you are available to try them on before the sole is attached. This is because it takes time for leather to assume the shape of the last: some components of the shoe are soaked in water and need to dry out slowly on the last to assume the correct shape, and this cannot be hurried.
Q3: How many times do I have to come to Jermyn Street? Back For the existing client with his or her own last, there is no need to come to Jermyn Street at all, unless the last is old and the feet have changed. If this is your first pair of shoes, then we shall need to meet you to measure your feet, and a second time to ensure that the fit is absolutely perfect. If you have ordered the shoes during one of your trips to your country, we try to return within about 6 months so that you can try on the shoes. Riding boots normally require one extra visit to ensure a perfect fit.
Q4: Who actually makes the bespoke shoes? Back Our team of makers based above the Jermyn Street shop has all the craft skills to measure, make your last, pattern cut, close and make the shoes. We also have an extended team of expert craftsmen who work to our standards and normally handle our "closing " - a specialized skill- and making. We are fortunate that our team is guided by Terry Moore, who trained at Peel and Co and has been with us for 44 years.
Q5: How much do your bespoke shoes cost? Back A pair of our bespoke shoes will cost around £1,850 +VAT (including the making your personal last). Riding boots start at about £4,500+VAT. Because the shoes are uniquely made for you, we ask for a deposit when we take your order. This is usually £1,000 for shoes, somewhat more for boots.
Q6: Who buys bespoke shoes and boots? Back The majority of our customers are men, but we do have a number of lady clients who appreciate our skill in making riding boots and classic ladies shoes. Although many members of old families have a tradition of commissioning bespoke shoes from us, the shoe enthusiast can come from any background and any part of the World. We currently have customers in about 80 countries World-Wide and they vary from billionaire financiers to some who have a monthly saving plan to ensure that they are able to afford the very best shoes that money can buy. All share an enthusiasm for shoes and an appreciation of what it is to own and wear a truly elegant personal accessory. Buyers of boots usually have a practical need, but are not satisfied with the standard ready-to-wear product available today. One client is a well-known bull-fighter, several are polo players or masters of their hunt and others may need them for major ceremonial events when only the very best will do. A third group are people who suffer from problem feet. Maybe one foot is larger than the other, or they have unusually large or small feet, have suffered an accident etc. There are many well-known specialists who cater for orthopaedic footwear and do an excellent job, but some customers are looking for a more elegant solution.
Q7: Do I have to select from standard models of shoe? Back No! Many "Bespoke" shoe makers are in fact offering to adapt a ready-to-wear machine-made shoe so that it fits customers with non-standard feet. Your Fosters shoes will be entirely handmade to your personal specifications and as such are unique to you. The examples we show you are therefore to help you generate ideas, and not a set design.
Q8: How should I care for my shoes? Back Your shoes are worth looking after and with proper care will keep their good looks for many years. Aficionados value the patina of age and prefer a shoe that has developed character after several years of wear. Our experts' advice is:
Q9: Can you make shoes for customers living outside the UK? Back Yes! The majority of our customers live overseas, in about 80 countries. Once your last is made you can easily order new shoes without coming to London, and in many cases we travel to see our clients, especially in the USA and Japan. We have a Japanese shoemaker in Jermyn Street who looks after our Japanese customers and travels twice a year to Japan. If you join our mailing/email list we will tell you the nearest location of our next visit.
Q10: Do I have to pay to have my own last made for the first pair of shoes? Back No! You do not have to pay for your first last because we pay this cost for new customers. Obviously we hope that you will like your shoes enough to come back for more and we will keep your last for many years in case you need it.
Q11: Could the last be made on a machine? Back So far, attempts to mechanise last-making have failed to produce a stylish result: for instance if we took a plaster cast or electronic image of your foot, the resulting shoe would look like a foot, which would not be very appealing. The last is not a copy of your foot, but is a model of the shoe interior, supporting your foot in all the right places. Each last maker has an individual style because he or she is envisioning the shoe when making the last. Ready-to-wear shoes are made on a plastic last, but specially seasoned wood (usually beech or hornbeam) is more suitable for the nailing and hand-stitching process of a hand-made shoe. The last is absolutely vital, since if the last is not right even the most talented maker will not be able to create a decent shoe. The skill of last-making is similar to that of a sculptor, envisioning a three-dimensional picture of your foot and the finished shoe whilst shaping the last by hand from a roughly formed block of wood. With few youngsters joining the craft there are very few skilled last makers in London today.
Q12: Do you hold sales events or special offers? Back Yes, we hold a sale in the Summer and Winter, and occasionally hold special promotional events. If you would like details, please add your name to our mailing/email list.
Q13: How are your ready-to-wear shoes different from the bespoke ones? Back Our bespoke shoes are made by hand to your personal specifications and can be in any material or style you want, provided that it is practical to make a high quality shoe that way. Our ready-to-wear (sometimes called "Bench-Made") shoes are designed to our own specifications but are machine-made mostly using a famous manufacturing process called "Goodyear welting". Goodyear welting was invented in England and is a specifically English way of joining the upper of the shoe to the sole. Our collection of Ready-to-wear shoes is limited to a range that we believe our customers will appreciate. They are available immediately from our stock (or can be obtained for you within a few weeks) whereas the bespoke shoe takes 4-6 months to make.
Q14: If your ready-to-wear shoes are machine made, what is special about them? Back Our core collection of ready to wear shoes are Goodyear-welted English made shoes that conform to the high standards we set as bespoke makers. The use of high quality materials such as oak bark vegetable tanned leather that has superior flexibility and wearing qualities, "in channel" stitching, high quality natural tinted full calf linings, a wooden shank, "gentleman's corner" and other details makes a huge difference to the quality of a shoe, which can only be appreciated over time. We prefer plain bottoms for our shoes with an interlocked rubber top piece on the heel, but if you prefer to announce your arrival with steel, this can be arranged. Our collection is focussed on elegant designs that have stood the test of time or are fitted for a particular situation, such as a smart black slip-on for weddings (1/2 over your normal size in brown or chestnut, this shoe slips easily over your shooting or sporting socks), a classic loafer, the restrained formal city shoe, or more assertive winged brogue. We hope that our selection will appeal to those of you who appreciate stylish and elegant shoes of lasting quality.
Q15: Do you make shoes for women? Back The majority of our customers are men, but we do have a number of lady clients who appreciate our skill in making riding boots and classic ladies shoes. Although many members of old families have a tradition of commissioning bespoke shoes from us, the shoe enthusiast can come from any background and any part of the World. We currently have customers in about 80 countries World-Wide and they vary from billionaire financiers to some who have a monthly saving plan to ensure that they are able to afford the very best shoes that money can buy. All share an enthusiasm for shoes and an appreciation of what it is to own and wear a truly elegant personal accessory.
Q16: Where is your work-shop? Can I come and see it? Back Our bespoke boot and shoe-making work-shop is at 83 Jermyn Street, and visitors are welcome to see our craftsmen and women at work by appointment.
Q17: Who can I talk to, to learn more? Back You can get advice on commissioning a pair of boots or shoes by calling in at the shop during business hours and asking to speak to one of the makers, or by arranging for us to visit your home or office in London, or by attending one of our periodic visits to the USA and Japan. We have an extensive display of our shoes in the shop and you will be welcome to examine them.
Q18: Henry Maxwell and Foster and Son trade from the same premises. Are the shoes made by the same people? Back Yes. The quality and standard of shoes and boots for each company is equally high, but our Foster and Son and Henry Maxwell lasts are different in style and keep to their individual traditions.
Q19: I live outside the UK: when my shoes wear out, how do I get them repaired?? Back A bespoke customer will normally send his shoes to the original maker because his unique last is needed for a first class repair. We do have a very large "library " of lasts from which an acceptable last can usually be found for the non-Fosters or Maxwell shoe repair, however. Your ready-to-wear shoes will also keep their original style and quality and last a lot longer if expertly repaired. Please send your repair to Jermyn Street with clear instructions, preferably on our standard order form. We suggest that you email, fax or telephone us beforehand to agree the type of repair needed and the cost before dispatching your shoes or other leather goods. We normally ask for a deposit before proceeding with major repair work. Work is routinely sent though the mail or by courier although you may wish to insure the package.
Q20: I have a nice old case that I want copied but don't live in the UK: Do I have to send it to Jermyn Street? Back Not necessarily: we are used to dealing with leather goods and photographs will probably be enough for us to work from provided you photograph all the key items such as locks and fittings, front, back etc. and give us the key dimensions.
Q21: Why do people buy handmade bespoke shoes when they are more expensive than cheaper machine-made shoes? Back
Q22: I am tax resident outside the UK. How do I get the UK VAT refunded to me? Back Initially you pay us the full price including VAT but we provide a standard UK VAT refund form for you. This takes only a minute or two to complete, and mainly requires your name, your address outside the UK and a contact telephone number. On departure from the UK you will need to get your form stamped by the UK customs. You then mail the form back to us and we re-credit you the recovered VAT. The regulations require us to re-credit you in the same way that you originally paid, e.g. by re-crediting your credit card, and therefore make it impractical for us accept cash for VAT free goods. Additionally UK tax residents can usually claim a VAT refund if they have a problem that requires them to have specially made bespoke footwear. A letter from a registered medical practitioner is required.